Goodbye Netherlands ... hello London

Written on Eurostar and posted from the Chelsea Public Library...

Some thoughts as I leave the Netherlands after a fortnight, and with another fortnight to come. I have enjoyed, for a time, being back in an environment with terraced houses, where people live in close proximity and space is at a premium. It has reinforced the luxury of the space we have in New Zealand and that I, especially, have in Governors Bay. By comparison with the Netherlands we seem profligate with our space. It also means that, here, you are never far from signs of human habitation or intense modification of the landscape. And, as well as the beautiful, historic and interesting modern buildings, there are many truly awful constructions, especially related to industry.  See a slender, gothic spire and there’s sure to be an ugly high-rise nearby. This may be primarily the Randstadt however – that western conurbation of Amsterdam, den Haag and Rotterdam, cities which are gradually merging as they gobble up smaller towns in between.

I understand a little more the extent to which the Netherlands has been reclaimed from water. Much of it is essentially delta which, over the centuries, has been drained for agriculture and habitation.  Much of it, at least in the area that I have been exploring, is sand. This is apparent when you pass nurseries where the ground is being turned over.  You could be on the beach at Brighton. My thoughts immediately turn to liquefaction!  PG mentioned earthquakes and rising sea levels in relation to The Netherlands. I’m not sure whether quakes are an issue at all, but global warming must be a big concern.  Jaap and Gerda talked of big storms in 1953 when dykes were breached and many lives were lost and this was just one of many instances over the centuries. However I am sure the Dutch are resourceful and that they are working on enhanced protection even now.

The three main cities I have visited so far (Den Haag, Amsterdam and Rotterdam) are each quite distinct in character. Rotterdam bustling, brash, go-ahead, edgy. Den Haag more sedate, elegant, serious perhaps. Both utterly rainbow in their populations. Amsterdam I need to spend more time in to really comment but its built character reflects more the old towns of Delft and Gouda. I have seen both wealth and serious lack of it in Den Haag.  There are some magnificent homes, set in beautiful grounds, often now occupied by embassies. There are a lot of open, park or wood (bos) areas. In contrast, the areas further away from the sea are poorer, immigrant suburbs with fewer open spaces. One of the great things about so much travel on public transport is that you get to see the rich array of people at close quarters.

Yesterday I caught the tram through to Scheveningen – Den Haag’s coastal suburb, a town in its own right really. I knew what it would be like – and it was. A bit retro, a bit sleezy, very built-up with the sort of fun-fair/bar/sun-worshipping attractions you associate with British seaside resorts. People baking to almost black in the sun (a shock this after New Zealand). But the real surprise, when you looked beyond the tacky, was the glorious, golden sand beach stretching for miles. I expected the North Sea to have grey sand, rather inhospitable beaches. Not so. I don’t think I have mentioned Mesdag’s panorama in the blog so far. This huge 360 degree panorama depicts Scheveningen when it was still a small fishing village. You stand in the centre and you could be in the Dutch landscape with all the flat-bottomed fishing boats pulled up (by horses) on the beach, a scattering of buildings and endless horizons of sea and sky. It is a remarkable artistic achievement and sad to compare its landscape with the Scheveningen of today.

I’ve noticed that local people are fairly reserved. I tend to smile at people I pass in the street, and say ‘hello’ to their dogs (lots of dogs), but there is little response. However when you engage with a Dutch person they are helpful and pleasant. I guess a large population in a small space makes you more mindful and protective of personal space. Also I’m now enculturated into semi-rural living, forgetting that city people anywhere don’t meet and greet the way those in smaller places do.

Well, here I am in Brussels Midi, waiting in the Eurostar terminal to go through to London and I’m thinking of those young men (mostly) who used to do the Grand Tour of Europe. I’m dead sure they didn’t lug their own luggage (does ‘lug’ have the same origin as ‘luggage’?) around!! At least customs, passport control and security was exceptionally straightforward (especially given the Olympics).

Now well ensconced at Allen Hall, Beaufort St, Chelsea. Allen Hall a seminary for training catholic priests, sited on Sir Thomas More’s old estate. From the moment of arrival yesterday at St Pancras it was apparent that the Olympics were the main act in town. Olympic rings at the end of the platform, an arriving team being photographed, more media in the arrival hall. Once again, immigration, security were low key and efficient. Stopped to purchase an Oyster card (new since my last time in London) then Victoria Line tube, change to District at Victoria, out at Sloane Sq and bus 319 down Kings Rd to Beaufort. St.  Despite the luggage and the heat (!) it felt great. Once I get on the tube I always feel I am ‘home’. I love the efficiency of it, the single-minded determination of people as they navigate subterranean London.

Toilets at St Pancras!

Arriving St Pancras

I'm guessing last minute pre-Olympic tarting up!

My third floor room at Allen Hall (no lift) is compact, basic and absolutely sufficient. I love it – a little haven in a big, relentless city. My window looks out over brick and stone buildings, courtyards, trees – and that little view alone makes me smile with pleasure. Returning to London feels like coming home.

Spent the rest of the afternoon wandering from Beaufort St to Sloane Sq and back, checking out various services I might need. Located a Post Office, a Library (where I am hoping to access free wi-fi), Marks and Spencers (for basic food items) and various reasonably-priced cafes (no cooking facilities at Allen Hall). Kings Rd was super-busy – traffic and people. Later in the evening (9.00pm-ish) I walked for some distance along the Chelsea Embankment and Cheyne Walk. Still quite light, people out walking and running on both sides of the river, the ‘Shard’ visible in the distance, planes high above heading for Heathrow and, as the evening wore on, Albert Bridge with its fairy lights. Again that feeling of being in love with London.

Albert Bridge about 9.30pm

Well, I have just learnt how long it takes to download photos at the Library. Fewer photos I fear!!